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Introducing the Isle of Harris

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by John Angus Macleod

Many people will be aware of the type of cloth known as Harris Tweed which is so called because it is hand made on the Isle of Harris. However, even though tourism generates an important income for islanders, the Isle of Harris, in the Western Isles/Outer Hebrides of Scotland, is not generally wide known as a vacation destination. However the island has much to offer the visitor.

Tarbert is the main village on the Isle of Harris and where you can catch the roll on roll off ferry. Tarbert is something of a picture postcard scene with the old houses along the narrow main street and more modern buildings appearing on terraces up one side of the narrow green valley it is set in. In stark contrast the ferry terminal and access road are very modern having been built relatively recently to ease congestion when the ferry is in port.

North Harris is rather rocky with huge jagged mountains that dominate the skyline and prove popular with many hill walkers. There are a number of challenging walks which usually take about an hour. Driving around North Harris you may find yourself a little confused as you approach Amhuinnsuide Castle (pronounced rather like ‘avan-soo-ee’). As you approach the castle you get the feeling that you have somehow ended up on a private road. Strangely the public highway passes right through the main entrance and passed the front door.

About 15 minutes drive from Tarbert is the small island called the Isle of Scalpay which is joined to the Isle of Harris by a narrow single track bridge. Scalpay once had a population of well over 800 and was an incredibly busy fishing community. Today the population is less than 300 but there is still a small but active fishing fleet. The north harbour is where you will find the pier but one of the best places to visit involves a trek across open moorland. Eilean Glas lighthouse was the first built in Scotland erected in 1788. Now automated the buildings and surrounding grounds are both beautiful and interesting.

South Harris is very different to North Harris and many consider this area to be the most beautiful on the Isle of Harris. On the east side it is very rocky with many rocky coves and single track roads which twist and turn endlessly. On the west coast it is far greener with large area of machair leading onto some of the finest beaches in Scotland and views out to the island of Taransay (which hosted a survival type of televised competition some years ago).

Moving southwards you will notice many of the beaches to your right and, without noticing, you will be so astounded by the spectacular sights that you will, most probably, slow down dramatically. Please be prepared for this reaction as it may alarm anyone who is driving behind you. Even though many locals witness this often in the summer months it does not get any easier dealing with the anger this dangerous reaction causes.

Just after the beaches you arrive at the village of Leverburgh. If you are catching the ferry over to Berneray and the Uists it is here that you will have to watch for a turn off to the right which leads straight to the CalMac ferry terminal. Leverburgh is a useful place to stop and restock as it has two excellent shops. The first one you pass (on the right) also supplies fuel as well as groceries and other goods, the second is on the left and is a small post office and gift shop.

The last point of your southerly journey around the Isle of Harris brings you to the village of Rodel. Once the main town of the Isle of Harris Rodel is only a very small village but it features the incredible medieval church of St Clements. This is a must see tourist attraction which you can collect the keys to at the nearby hotel. Outside is wonderful but it is inside that you can see the beautifully decorated tombs and head stones.

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