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Ceol na Mara & Harris
Posted by Phil MacDonald at Mar 29th, 2008 in Travel Tips
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In the Hebrides of Scotland the Gaelic language is the native language. Most places are now sign posted in the Gaelic with an English translation below in smaller writing. The Gaelic is an extremely poetic language and a lovely phrase is “Ceol na Mara” which, roughly translated, means the “music of the sea”, what a beautiful way in which to describe the sounds of the sea. Ceol na Mara is also a commonly used name for guest houses and bed and breakfasts especially on the Isle of Harris and the Isle of Lewis in the Outer Hebrides/Western Isles.
The Outer Hebrides consist of a number of inhabited islands which are found off the west coast of Scotland. The main town is Stornoway on the Isle of Lewis. The isle of Lewis is joined to the Isle of Harris and are together known as the long island. Throughout the Isle of Harris most people have Gaelic as their first language and English as their second. The accent is incredibly soft but also very clear and the English spoken is beautiful and sometimes contains phrases akin to the Gaelic phrases (and Gaelic also contains many English words but usually for most modern things such as television).
Harris is a truly astounding place to visit and it is very well known for it’s beauty. Along the south west coast of the Isle of Harris can be found a number of incredibly beautiful beaches. Long tracts of silvery shell sand backed by sand dunes which lead onto land known as machair. Machair is very fertile ground, unique to Scotland, which has a delicate and finely balanced eco structure on which the most fantastic selection of wild flowers create the most wonderful annual displays of colour.
Ceol na Mara (the music of the sea), and the islands close relationship with the sea, has played an important role in the shaping of the Hebridean culture. Many of the Gaelic songs make reference to the sea and many have lost their lives at sea with several disasters, such as the sinking of the Iolaire, having a profound effect upon many small villages. The harsh realities of the past and the long eventful history have helped create the most incredible character in the folk of the islands who are both strong and yet gentle and friendly. One of the most beautiful aspects of the culture is the way in which the Psalms are sung in the churches. Sung in the Gaelic the tunes are so profound that you will find it difficult not to be moved deeply when you first hear them.
The beaches of South Harris should be top of your list of places to visit on the Isle of Harris. Both the east and west coasts of Harris are incredibly beautiful but they are very different, to the west are the beaches and machair but the east coast is incredibly rocky with pebble beaches and rocky inlets. The medieval church at Rodel, found at the very south of Harris, is one of the most interesting places to visit and well worth picking the key up for from the local hotel. North Harris is very, very hilly.
One of the best places to enjoy Ceol na Mara is on the Isle of Harris and, luckily, the island is far more accessible than it was in the past. Today it is possible to fly to Stornoway airport which is over on the Isle of Lewis but, fortunately, Lewis and Harris are joined together so you are able to drive down to Harris. The most popular mode of transport used to get to the Isle of Harris is the ferry which comes into the main town of Tarbert from the Isle of Skye. Another ferry travels between the small village of Leverbrugh and the Uists.
One of the best ways to enjoy the sounds of Ceol na Mara is to stay bed and breakfast in a guest house close to the sea. Fortunately there are plenty to choose from and all offer the most luxurious accommodation and the friendliest atmosphere you are ever likely to experience.
The hospitality is also noteworthy in all of the Harris hotel accommodation. Ardhasaig House is a small Harris hotel just outside Tarbert in North Harris. This hotel has some of the best views out of all the hotels and is extremely convenient for both South Harris and all of the Isle of Lewis. Although it is slightly too far from the sea to hear Ceol na Mara you do get wonderful views of the sea and out across the Harris Hills.
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